Archiwa Travel Blog

Xerokampos is a charming, small settlement in the south eastern part of Crete, known for its beautiful beaches, crystal clear waters, tranquillity and natural clay baths. Far from the busy, tourist filled western part of the island, it remains an oasis of Crete’s untouched nature. Due to its remote location, the area is still rarely visited by tourists. The settlement consists mainly of villas and guesthouses whose gardens soften the rugged mountain landscape around them. The only way to reach it is by car. From Delfini Studios it is about 30 km.

The first written records of Xerokampos date back to the Venetian period (the 1583 census), although the history of the settlement reaches much further into the past. On a hill near one of the beaches lies an archaeological zone with the ruins of an ancient Greek city.

The charm of eastern Crete lies above all in its dry, rocky hills covered with low shrubs, among which thyme dominates, filling the air with its fragrance. In Xerokampos, this raw landscape contrasts beautifully with the turquoise sea and bright sandy beaches. Apart from the beaches, family run tavernas and small guesthouses, there is nothing here to disturb the wild beauty of the island.

The Beaches of Xerokampos – diverse, peaceful, unique

The main reason visitors come to Xerokampos is its unique and varied beaches — some covered with soft white sand, others with fine pebbles or sandstone slabs. Several beaches lie in the vicinity of the settlement, with the most famous being Ambelos, Amatu, Alona, Alatsolimni and the Great Beach. Such a wide choice guarantees plenty of space and tranquillity. Most beaches have gentle access to the sea and relatively shallow water near the shore. At the same time, it is important to remember that these beaches do not offer extensive tourist infrastructure.

Ambelos, Gerontolakkos and Argilos – where history meets nature

In the central part of Xerokampos, on the hill of Farmakokefalo, stand the ruins of the ancient city of Ambelos and the picturesque chapel of St. Nicholas. At the foot of the Trachilos cape, near the chapel, lies Ambelos Beach, made up of many small coves. One of them is called Gerontolakkos, meaning “Holy Cave”, a name likely linked to an ancient sanctuary that once stood here.

Further along the coast is the Argilos bay, known for its natural “healing” clay, and a little further east lies another beautiful beach — Chiona.

Who is Xerokampos for?

Xerokampos is the perfect destination for those who prefer:

peace and quiet,
closeness to nature,
wild, uncrowded beaches,
the authentic atmosphere of eastern Crete,
relaxation far from loud music and heavy tourist traffic.

Eastern Crete is far less frequented by mass tourism — more traditional, more “wild”, and in many ways the most authentic part of the island. Here, peace, natural beauty and well preserved Cretan traditions set the tone. And yet, just like the rest of Crete, its eastern tip offers remarkable beaches, archaeological sites from the Minoan era and later periods, monasteries, gorges and traditional villages… Siga siga… This region is home to unique places you simply cannot miss while travelling or relaxing in eastern Crete:

Spinalonga Island – a place with many faces: once a Venetian fortress, later a Turkish port, and eventually the infamous island of the lepers.
Kato Zakros – once a Minoan palace, today an archaeological site and a charming fishing village with intimate tavernas. For long‑distance walkers: the dramatic Gorge of the Dead leading straight to the ruins.
Vai Beach – the island’s only natural palm beach with white sand, located near the archaeological sites of Itanos and Paleokastro.
Toplou Monastery – a place where the history of courage and the fight for freedom has been written for centuries. Today: impressive historic buildings, a museum and a winery.
The port town of Sitia – cosy cafés and tavernas along the bay, a regional archaeological museum, a small sea‑lake inhabited by cormorants and swans, and the Venetian fortress of Kazarma.
Makrygialos – now a popular port town with atmospheric tavernas by the Libyan Sea, hiding the ruins of a Minoan villa and a Roman house.

All these places — and many lesser known gems — are just a short trip away from Delfini Studio. Curious about our custom designed exploration programs? Let us know — we love crafting unique journeys across Eastern Crete. We invite you to our garden and olive grove, located in the very heart of the eastern Cretan peninsula. We’ll be writing about more unusual and off the beaten path places on our blog. Visit us at www.delfinigreece.com

Vai Beach 🏝️ is one of the most beautiful beaches on Crete, located at the very tip of the island’s eastern peninsula — 35 km from the Delfini Studio 🐬 and 25 km from the town of Sitia. It is a breathtaking place with crystal clear, blue water 🌊, fine light sand, and an exotic palm forest 🌴.

Vai is home to the largest palm grove in Europe, with more than 5,000 Cretan date palms (Phoenix theophrasti). The entire area belongs to the historic Toplou Monastery, located nearby.

There are several stories about how this unique palm grove came to be. One legend says the trees grew from date pits thrown away by Saracen pirates, later washed ashore. Another claims the palms were planted by the Phoenicians, who sailed the Mediterranean twenty centuries ago. The real explanation is probably simpler — the palm is an endemic species, naturally growing on Crete, and here it found exceptionally favourable conditions.

Due to increasing visitor numbers and the fact that not all tourists respected nature, the grove was declared a protected area and incorporated into the National Park. Thanks to this, it can still be admired today in its pristine, unchanged form.

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The Knossos complex is the most important centre of Minoan civilisation on Crete and one of the most fascinating archaeological sites in Europe. Considered the oldest city on the continent, it is listed by UNESCO. Located near Heraklion, in the central part of the island, it is the best preserved palace complex from the Minoan period, the earliest civilisation in Europe.

Minoan civilisation developed from 3000 to 1100 BC and left behind many intriguing monuments. Its birthplace was the unique island of Crete. Knossos is regarded as its largest and most important centre, functioning continuously from 2000 to 1400 BC.

The discoverer of the Knossos complex — covering around 20,000 square metres — was the British amateur archaeologist Arthur Evans (1851–1941). It was nearly discovered earlier by his colleague Heinrich Schliemann, who, following Homer’s clues, found the ruins of Troy and Mycenae. Evans devoted his entire life to Minoan civilisation, beginning excavations in Knossos in 1900. He was fascinated by the possible links between the ruins and the mythological labyrinth of King Minos. The name “Minoan civilisation” refers to this legendary ruler of Crete. Myths of the Minotaur, Theseus and Ariadne, and Daedalus and Icarus are all connected to his reign. Scholars believe that “Minos” may not have been a personal name but rather a dynastic title — similar to “pharaoh” in Egypt.

The Minoans maintained many trade and political connections with neighbouring cultures. Their civilisation extended beyond Crete. Researchers study their links with the later Mycenaean culture and with the island of Thira (Santorini), where the ancient city of Akrotiri flourished. Some scholars trace the beginnings of Minoan culture to the massive volcanic eruption on Santorini around 1650 BC. The final blow to the civilisation was likely the invasion of the Mycenaeans from the mainland. The first destruction of the palace occurred around 1700 BC, with further destructions in the 15th and 14th centuries BC.

Evans’ work resulted in concrete reconstructions at Knossos and freely interpreted frescoes discovered in the ruins. Decorative paintings with numerous plant and animal motifs were found. One fresco shows a man leaping over a bull — likely depicting tauromachy, a ritual spectacle characteristic of Mediterranean cultures. Crete also yielded figurines of women with exposed breasts (probably priestesses or goddesses) holding snakes.

For a long time, these artefacts led scholars to believe the Minoans were a peaceful, somewhat hedonistic society in which women played a significant role. However, the writing systems used on Crete have not been fully deciphered. And this was not a purely peaceful civilisation — the symbol of Knossos was the double axe, and the island is full of ancient weapons and traces of fires and battles.

Knossos is commonly called a palace. Visitors can see the throne room, ceremonial chambers, royal apartments, temples, guardrooms and storerooms. Much of this is a free interpretation of the ruins. To some researchers, the numerous buildings, corridors and passages resemble the mythological labyrinth built for Minos by the ingenious Daedalus — the place where the Minotaur, half man and half bull, was said to hide.

The truth remains unknown — there are studies and theories. Whatever the case, today the Knossos complex is a magnet for travellers, and everyone can find their own version of its story.

Olives are one of the staples of the Greek cuisine, and even more broadly, Mediterranean cuisine. These small, unassuming fruits have also found their place in many other cuisines around the world. The fruit of the olive tree typically complements many dishes, but can also be the main ingredient. European stores offer green and black olives, sometimes filled with almonds or peppers, as well as olive oil. These can be purchased in almost every store. The fruit typically comes from the olive groves of the Mediterranean basin. The most delicious and diverse varieties come from Greece. Olive cultivation in Greece is not only the foundation of the local agriculture but also part of its rich culture. Greece is one of the world's largest producers of olives and olive oil, and its olive groves are often centuries old. Residents of different regions compete for the title of producer of the best olives and olive oil in the world. The most famous and recognized are olives from Crete, Kalamata, and Chalkidiki. Crete is the largest center of olive oil production in Greece. There are over 35 million olive trees on the island. The most popular variety is the Koroneiki, a small fruit used to produce the highest quality olive oil. The Kalamata region in the Peloponnese is famous for producing the most famous black olive variety (Kalamon). The Chakidiki region is known for growing large, green olives. There are over 170 million olive trees throughout Greece, of which approximately 81% are grown for olive oil and 19% for olives.

Olive trees have a long tradition, having been known for at least 5,000 years. A tree can live and bear fruit for up to 1,000 years! The world's oldest olive tree can be found on Crete, Greece. Olives can be found throughout the Mediterranean region. Outside of Greece, they grow in Spain, Italy, and France. They can also be found in Morocco, Africa, the USA, and Asia. Olive trees are not demanding. They prefer sunny locations and moderate watering. They rarely suffer from disease and are not particularly attacked by pests. An olive tree typically reaches a height of around 6 meters, with some specimens reaching 12 or even 15 meters. Olive trees grow slowly and begin bearing fruit only after 7-10 years. They reach some maturity at 20 years of age, and after 30, they can be considered fully mature. The best yields are achieved between the ages of 30 and 150. Only then can one harvest 15 to 70 kg of fruit per tree per year. Their lifespan can be up to several thousand years...

The fruit harvest lasts from late September/October to January, and sometimes even March, depending on the variety and region. Traditional methods are still popular in Greece (nets are placed under the trees and the fruit is shaken out using sticks or special combs). The harvested fruit is placed in crates and then sent to olive presses (olive mills) within 24 hours to preserve its quality.

Olive trees have fragrant, dry bark, dense branches, and narrow green leaves, and they thrive in regular pruning. Olives bloom in summer, and the ripe fruit can only be picked from the trees in autumn. There are several colors of olives. The most popular are green olives. These are the fruit in the initial stages of ripening and are harvested the earliest. As they ripen, the olives turn reddish-purple, while fully ripened fruit are black.

Olive trees love Greece, and Greece loves them back. Many olive groves in Greece are centuries, even over a thousand years old. Due to the mountainous terrain, harvesting is often difficult and requires manual labor. Due to climatic conditions, many traditional groves do not use artificial fertilizers, which contributes to the natural flavor of the oil. The Greek lifestyle and farming style, siga-siga, signifies patience and following the natural rhythms of nature. Greece is renowned for producing the highest quality extra virgin olive oil, often considered among the best in the world thanks to its unique climate, soil, and the ecological, natural working style of olive growers.

Welcome to the DELFINI garden in the heart of eastern Crete, to our olive grove!

Toplou Monastery is a jewel among the places worth visiting in the far east of Crete. This powerful monastic complex stands on an almost desert like plateau. It is an important site in the island’s history and today a key destination for visitors, as well as one of the most dynamic local enterprises. It is the only monastery on the eastern tip of Crete preserved in such excellent condition.

The full name of the monastery is “The Monastery of the Virgin Mary of the Cape” (gr. Μονή Παναγίας Ακρωτηριανής). The commonly used name “Toplou” was given by the Turks (the word top means “cannon”). The monastery was a true fortress, equipped with its own artillery, and the monks were trained to defend it. Thanks to this, they successfully repelled pirate attacks along the Cretan coast. It was one of the wealthiest monastic communities on the island.

The exact date of the monastery’s foundation is unknown, but it certainly existed during the Venetian period. In 1530, it was plundered by the Knights of Malta, and in 1612 it survived a powerful earthquake. The Venetians helped rebuild it, recognising the strategic value of a fortified outpost in the face of the growing Ottoman threat. In 1646, eastern Crete was conquered by the Ottoman army. The monks returned only after 1704, when the Turkish authorities allowed the monastery to function again.

When visiting the monastery, it is worth remembering its defensive character. The entrance consists of two separate gates — a decorative one and a defensive one — separated by a small courtyard. Above the courtyard and surrounding buildings rises a 33 metre high Renaissance bell tower built in the 17th century.

The main courtyard is paved with pebbles and decorated with pots of fragrant flowers. It is surrounded by stone buildings with wooden galleries leading to the monks’ cells and communal rooms — the kitchen, dining hall and storerooms. At the centre stands the monastery church. The church is adorned with stone plaques, including one with an inscription from 132 BC (an ancient document known as the Arbitration of Magnesia). The small monastic church (katholikon) contains beautiful 14th century frescoes and 18th century icons. The most precious of them are said to be kept out of sight, stored in the sacristy — including the famous icon “Great Are You, O Lord” painted by Ioannis Kornaros in 1770, composed of dozens of miniature biblical scenes. The monastery also houses a museum presenting its long history. Visitors can see engravings, documents, old Bibles, crosses and seals. There is also an exhibition dedicated to the monastery’s role in the Cretan struggle for independence in the 19th century and during the Nazi occupation.

The monks continue traditional agriculture. A restored 19th century windmill at the entrance symbolises this heritage. Today, the monastery’s agricultural estate is far more modern than it appears. Under the Toplou brand, the monks produce olive oil, raki and wine — white (from Vilana and Thrapsathiri grapes) and red (from Merlot, Shiraz and Liatiko). Each year, the monastery’s vineyard produces tens of thousands of bottles, sold both in Greece and across continental Europe. Visitors can taste the wines in the nearby winery and purchase all monastery products and souvenirs.

The monastery is open daily from 09:00 to 18:00. Admission costs a symbolic 3–5 euros. There is a small free car park in front. As in all religious sites on Crete, visitors should dress appropriately. Toplou Monastery is located about 15 minutes from Vai Palm Beach (gr. Παραλία Βάι).

On 26 September, the monastery celebrates its feast day, marked by a large festival attended by pilgrims from all over Crete.

Mnisi z klasztoru zajmują się tradycyjnym rolnictwem. Ich tradycje rolnicze symbolizuje odrestaurowany, XIX – wieczny wiatrak, znajdujący się przed wejściem do monastyru. Współczesne gospodarstwo klasztorne jest dużo bardziej nowoczesne niż się wydaje. Pod marką Toplou mnisi produkują oliwę, raki oraz wino (białe z odmian vilana i thrapsathiri, oraz czerwone z odmian merlot, shiraz i liatiko). Każdego roku klasztorna winnica produkuje kilkadziesiąt tysięcy butelek, trafiających nie tylko na greckie stoły i na rynki kontynentalnej Europy. Win klasztornych można skosztować w winiarni znajdującej się nieopodal klasztoru. Można tam także kupić wszystkie produkty klasztorne i pamiątki z obiektu.

Klasztor jest czynny codziennie od 09:00 do 18:00. Wstęp kosztuje symboliczne 3-5 Euro Przed klasztorem znajduje się niewielki, bezpłatny parking. Odwiedzając klasztor, podobnie jak inne religijne budowle na Krecie, trzeba ubrać się odpowiednio. Klasztor Toplou do palmowej plaży Vai (gr. Παραλία Βάι) dzieli około 15 minut drogi…

W dniu 26 września klasztor świętuje, odbywa się wielki festyn, na który przyjeżdżają wierni z całej Krety.

Kato Zakros is a charming fishing village located in a beautiful Mediterranean bay in the southeastern part of Crete. The drive by car through mountain serpentines and gorges offers unforgettable views and many natural and cultural surprises. In its heyday, Kato Zakros was an important centre of trade with Egypt and the East. At the beginning of the 20th century, excavations began here, during which the remains of a Minoan palace and the surrounding town were discovered. It is believed that the palace had around 300 rooms, including a temple, treasury, storerooms, royal chambers, administrative rooms and various workshops (of a blacksmith, goldsmith, stonemason, potter and perfume maker). Today, the entire archaeological site is open to visitors.

In the village of Kato Zakros, along the bay, there is a small, picturesque pebble and stone beach. The shoreline is lined with atmospheric tavernas serving traditional Greek food and small, cosy studios for rent.

While in Kato Zakros, you can walk the trail through the Valley of the Dead. In Minoan times, the caves in the gorge were likely used as burial sites.

The route to Kato Zakros — through mountain paths, the ruins of the Minoan town and traditional tavernas — creates unforgettable impressions of Crete’s old and new traditions.

Makrygialos is the most famous resort in eastern Crete, located just 15 minutes from Delfini Studio. It is a beautiful, atmospheric and still intimate seaside town on the Libyan Sea.

As recently as the 1950s, Makrygialos had no road connection with the rest of Crete. All food and goods were transported to and from the small harbour by boat. As tourism developed, the town gradually changed its appearance. Abandoned houses were replaced by small, family run hotels.

The history of Makrygialos’ port dates back to Minoan times. During excavations in the 1970s, archaeologists discovered traces of ancient settlement. The most interesting find is the remains of a Minoan villa built around 1480 BC. Later, the ruins of a Roman villa from the 1st century AD were uncovered.

Makrygialos developed around a small bay that formed a natural harbour. Today, the town consists of two neighbouring settlements — Makrygialos to the west and Analipsi to the east. They are connected by the Great Beach, a long sandy beach with full tourist infrastructure. There are also other beaches in the area: the pebbly Kalamokanias in the western part of town, Lagoufa Beach next to the largest hotel complexes, and Manousos Halavridi Beach.

Sitia (Sitea) is a charming, intimate town located on the northeastern coast of Crete. It is a peaceful oasis, very different from the large, bustling cities of western Crete such as Heraklion, Rethymno or Chania. It is an ideal place for those who value tranquillity and a cosy, almost family like atmosphere. Strolling along the seafront promenade or enjoying coffee in seaside cafés feels different here than in the crowded tourist centres of the west. And interestingly… there is plenty to see.

The port — surrounded by a promenade decorated with pebble mosaics of fish — and the nearby ponds where swans, geese and cormorants swim add charm to the town’s atmosphere. The Venetian Kazarma Fortress, standing on a hill above the town, recalls the turbulent history of Sitia and the region. It once served as a military garrison during Venetian rule. Archaeological sites in Sitia itself, in Petras and in nearby Palekastro offer unforgettable encounters with antiquity. The regional archaeological museum is modest and intimate, yet well worth a visit.

Picturesque hillside streets, family run shops and the traditional Tuesday market reflect the living traditions, crafts and agriculture of the region. From Sitia, it is only a short distance to many attractions on the eastern tip of the island — Vai Beach, Toplou Monastery, the Minoan palace in Kato Zakros and the Richtis Gorge.

Like all of Crete, Sitia has had a turbulent history. The town was under Venetian rule, and because of its strategic location, the occupiers fortified it, creating one of their bases in the eastern part of the island (Kazarma Fortress). Over the centuries, the town suffered even more: an earthquake in 1508, a bloody pirate attack in 1538, and finally destruction by the Venetians themselves in 1651, fearing an Ottoman invasion. For nearly two centuries, Sitia remained abandoned. The Turkish occupiers did not encourage locals to return. Only in the second half of the 19th century, when the Ottoman governor rebuilt the town, did the population slowly come back.

Today, Sitia is a charming, quiet Greek town with an almost family like atmosphere. It is a perfect place for a peaceful siga siga holiday and for discovering the hidden treasures of Minoan culture and the traditional customs of the region.

Spinalonga is an island located in the picturesque Mirabello Bay, about one kilometre off the northern coast of eastern Crete. It is a place with a fascinating history. First, it was a powerful Venetian fortress that protected Crete from invaders for centuries. Later, it became the largest and last active leper colony in Europe. Because of its past, the island has become a symbol of exclusion and the extraordinary strength of spirit of the people who lived and died there in solitude.

Its history is long and complex. The Venetian period lasted from 1579 to 1715. In 1579, the Venetians began building a massive fortress on the island. Its purpose was to protect Crete from pirate raids and Ottoman attacks due to its strategic location. Crete lies at the crossroads of three continents — Europe, Africa and Asia — and has always been crucial for trade routes across the Mediterranean. For more than a century, Spinalonga was an important part of the Venetian defence system. The fortress served both as a military stronghold and as a refuge for civilians during sieges. The Venetians controlled the island until 1715, when it was taken over by the Ottoman Turks.

For nearly 200 years (1715–1903), the island was under Ottoman rule. After taking control, the Turks settled on Spinalonga, turning it into a thriving community and an international port. During this time, the island experienced significant development — mosques, baths and residential houses were built, many of which can still be seen today. The Turkish settlement grew and became an important trading point in the region. Because of the island’s defensive character, Muslim soldiers and their families lived there, and it also served as a place of exile and imprisonment for convicts from across Crete.

For almost two centuries, the island’s inhabitants engaged in lively trade, and Spinalonga’s port became an important transit point for ships sailing across the southeastern Aegean Sea.

In 1903, the island was transformed into a leper colony. The Turks left, but their architectural legacy remained.

From 1903 to 1915, people diagnosed with leprosy from all over Crete were sent to live on the island. They had to face not only their illness but also harsh living conditions. Over time, the colony functioned like any other community — with shops, workshops, schools and even theatres. The residents tried to lead normal lives, supporting one another and forming a strong, close knit society.

Boats to Spinalonga depart from Plaka, Elounda and Agios Nikolaos.

The well preserved fortress, Ottoman buildings and remains of the leper settlement leave a lasting impression on all who visit.